By: Patricia Sendra
In every traveler's imagination, there exists a list with which we plan our journeys. This is the list of those places that we would like to visit at least once in our lives. They may be hidden, out-of-the way destinations; or an experience to be enjoyed rather than a place. Some, however, are simply touristy places that although we do not want to admit it, we want to see them once and then cross them off our list. One such place made my very first list, when I was just child and only dreamed of traveling the world. This place was the legendary Blue Grotto in Italy.
The Grotta Azzurra or Blue Grotto is part of the island of Capri in southern Italy. Situated in the gulf of Naples, the island became a tourist destination after the famous Grotto was revealed to the world by a 19th century German writer. However, this spot was actually discovered by the ancient Romans who built docks and even a small tunnel that still exists to this day. Three ancient statues were recovered from the grotto in 1964 and a recent 2009 underwater survey revealed the existence of several statue bases, leading archeologists to believe in the existence of more sculptures. In fact, legend has it that the grotto could have been the private pool of the emperor Tiberius, who had constructed a large villa on the island. The ruins of that villa can still be visited today at the summit of the island.
So, after reading the tales of so many writers, intellectuals, and other cosmopolitan characters that had visited this site, I thought it would be an easy, even glamorous outing. But unfortunately, it became a day long adventure. To reach the grotto, we had to travel in a series of vessels. First, we crossed from the city of Sorrento in a ferry to Marina Grande, the principal port of Capri. There they separated us into two groups and transferred us to smaller motorboats. Once aboard, we lounged about soaking in the incredible vistas, oblivious to what lay ahead. We cruised past the island's craggy cliffs and other impressive rock formations until we reached a rendezvous point. Soon, we discovered that a group of even smaller, wooden rowboats were congregating just along our vessel. That was when we realized that another transfer lay ahead of us.
Our fellow travelers started descending from the motorboat, four at a time, disappearing into the small rowboats. Finally our turn arrived, but I didn't fully comprehend that I actually had to leap from a ship's ladder onto the rowboat. It unraveled like a scene from an old "I Love Lucy" episode. I grasped the ladder, gingerly stretching one leg to position myself in the boat. But instead of getting on the boat, the boat starting drifting away. I was holding on for dear life to the ladder with both hands, with one foot on the ladder's rung and the other, sort of in the boat. Apparently, I was not completely trusting of the aged Italian sailor with the toothy grin manning the dinghy!
"SIGNORINA, PER FAVORE!" yelled out the oarsman (and something else in Italian that thanks heavens I didn't understand). I decided I really wasn't keen on swimming in those ice cold waters, so I breathed in deeply and hurled myself onto the boat. He motioned for me to sit down, positioning three of us at one end with the remaining tourist and himself directly facing us on the other end.
As we approached the cave, we realized that all the little boats were lined up in single file, waiting their turn to enter. The only thing was that I could not see the actual entrance from my vantage point. I could only discern a small crack in the face of the cliff, near the water's edge. At that moment, our oarsman again raised his voice. He indicated with his gestures that we had to lie down one on top of another. In other words, we had to lean back like a string of fallen dominos until we were flat against the bottom of the boat. A scant few seconds later, the purpose of his strange plan become crystal clear.
Apparently, our boat was planning to traverse through that tiny fissure. It was so narrow and low that if one of us had decided to sit up, we would have lost our heads. (And I think if I had had the oars in my possession, I would have had that boat turned around immediately!). The oarsman, however, grabbed hold of a chain hanging across the top of the crevice and propelled us right through the hole. Finally, just like that, we were inside the small cavern.
When we got used to the dim light, the vista was awe-inspiring. Rays of sun penetrated the cavern through an underwater cavity and its brilliance produced an iridescent, shimmering effect. The water appeared to be lit up from beneath, transparent and luminous at the same time with intense shades of turquoise. It did not disappoint.
But beautiful views aside, the scene inside was slightly chaotic. The oarsmen were rowing furiously in circles, serenading us with Neapolitan classics. Due to the cave's acoustics, however, it was more like a cacophony of sounds emanating from the tiny vessels. But it didn't last long--our surrealistic experience had quickly come to an end and the tiny boats were all realigned to exit through the same small pinhole.
When I returned to the hotel, I took out my dog-eared travel diary and triumphantly struck it off ‘the List'. In retrospect, the experience was quite different from my imagination. But the spectacle, even if short and at times, disorganized, wasn't unimpressive. This sea of blue colors and tonalities, so incredibly intense, formed an indelible memory of this voyage.
· Via: Daytrip from Rome or overnight in Naples or Sorrento. Ferries or similar rapid boats will transfer you to Capri in 30 minutes or less. (Or you could choose to stay in Capri itself).
· Tickets: Boat transfers can be purchased at Marina Grande. Entry fee is paid to the head of the rowboat contingent. Escorted excursions including the Grotto visits are also available.
· Visit: The season is generally from the end of April until October, as it depends on the tide, and obviously weather conditions, even in season. It is best to visit on a bright, sunny day.
· Curiosities: There are several other similar sea grottoes found in Italy, Croatia, Malta and Greece. This is one of the more famous ones.
· Hot Tip: Not as well known is that you can take a taxi or bus to the Grotto entrance, descend a flight of stairs directly down to the edge of the grotto, climb into a rowboat and just pay the entrance fee to a 'rowboat' cashier. For us Disney type people, this is what would be known as the 'fast pass'.
· P.S: Oh and yes, I lied...I ended up returning to Capri several years later, discovered the 'fast pass' and revisited the Grotto. I am happy to report it still hasn't lost any of its splendor...
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